Tayid Lighthouse, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
Cagayan Valley

BATANES

Marlboro Country, Batanes, Philippines
“Finally.”
I beamed a smile. I just couldn’t contain the happiness I felt back then, that inexplicable feeling of euphoria. It was really overwhelming as if I was about to cry whilst I was adoring the grandiose view right before my very eyes. Priceless, indeed.
📍Racuh a Payaman / Marlboro Country

🇵🇭BATANES ADVENTURE PRIMER🇵🇭

✈🛳🚌 How to get to Batanes (Batan Island):
⏺ Take a plane from Metro Manila to Basco Airport (e.g. SkyJet and Cebu Pacific). Alternatively, you may fly to Basco via Philippine Airlines from Clark Airport.

🏄🏝🚴 Sites to Explore/Activities (tricycle/van tour):

North Batan Tour
Vayang Rolling Hills
Basco Lighthouse
Naidi Hills
Valugan Boulder Beach
Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel
PAGASA Weather Station
Tukon Hills
Fundacion Pacita
Mt. Carmel Chapel
Santo Domingo Cathedral
Chadpidan Boulder Beach (not included in North Batan Tour package; you can hire a tricycle to get here)
Mt. Iraya (coordinate with the tourism office for available tour guides)

South Batan Tour
Chawa View Deck
Mahatao Shelter Port
Tayid Lighthouse and Uvoy Hills
Racuh a Payaman / Marlboro Country
Alapad Pass and Rock Formation
Imnajbu-Itbud Beach
Songsong Ruins
Honesty Coffee Shop
House of Dakay
Old Spanish Bridge
Homoron Blue Lagoon and White Beach
San Carlos Borromeo Church
San Jose de Obrero Church
San Lorenzo Ruiz Chapel
Maywang A Libro Du Vatan
Diura Fishing Village and Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth (not included in South Batan Tour package; you can hire a tricycle to get here)

✈🛳🚌 How to get to Sabtang Island:
⏺ Ride a tricycle from Basco to Ivana Port.
⏺ Take the public boat (faluwa) to Sabtang Island (boats leave between 6:00 AM and 7:00 AM / 2:00 PM and 3:00 PM; travel time is 20 – 40 minutes depending on sea condition).

🏄🏝🚴 Sites to Explore/Activities (Tricycle/van tour):
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint
Savidug Village
Chavayan Village
Mahayaw Arch / Ahaw Arch of Morong Beach
Sabtang Lighthouse
San Vicente Ferrer Church
St. Thomas Aquinas Chapel
Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel
Vuhus Island (requires boat ride from Sabtang Island for 15 – 30 minutes)
Sumnanga Fishing Village or Little Hong Kong (if you plan on visiting Sumnanga Village and Vuhus Island, it’s advisable to spend one night in Sabtang since boats (faluwa) bound for Ivana will leave Sabtang Port by lunch time)

✈🛳🚌 How to get to Itbayat Island:
⏺ Ride a tricycle to Basco Port.
⏺ Take the public boat (faluwa) to Itbayat Island (boats leave between 6:00 AM and 7:00 AM; travel time is 2 – 3 hours depending on sea condition).

🏄🏝🚴 Sites to Explore/Activities (Motorcycle tour):
Rapang Cliff (requires trekking for 1 – 2 hours)
Torongan Cave and Cliff (will require hiking for 15 – 30 minutes)
Old PAGASA Weather Station
Itbayat Airport
Yawran Village
Lake Kavaywan
Paganaman Port Blue Lagoon
Mt. Riposed
Mt. Karaboboan
Port Mauyen

Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Visiting Batanes was a little boy’s dream. I’ve been seeing photos of this place in postcards and magazines ever since I was a kid. And when I finally got the chance to witness it with my own eyes, I promised myself that I’m gonna go back to see it again.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
Checking Batanes off my bucket list happened in 2016. I could still remember that feeling when I woke up at dawn to catch my flight. It was pure bliss and excitement. This trip of a lifetime lasted for nine days.
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Back then, the Batanes flight of Philippine Airlines was still operated out of Manila International Airport (it’s been transferred to Clark Airport now). We flew smoothly over mainland Luzon but once the pilot announced for the cabin crew to take their landing stations, that’s when it became turbulent. What day is it? I thought to myself. It was Friday the 13th! The turbo prop aircraft of Philippine Airlines rocked here and there above the verdant hills of Batan Island. The moment I peeked out the window, my heart almost leapt out of my chest not because of the turbulence but due to my excitement to see this paradise in the flesh.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
The van service of Marfel Lodge picked me up at the airport. Together with other guests of Marfel, our vehicle dropped us off at our assigned Marfel branch. I immediately contacted my tricycle driver who would tour me around. It was raining cats and dogs when we began the tour. It was the month of May but the northeast monsoon and tail-end of a cold front were causing some weather disturbances in the province. That would explain our shaky flight that morning.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I waited all my life for this moment and the rain might ruin everything yet I still stayed optimistic. I only got to visit Basco Lighthouse and Vayang Rolling Hills because the rain didn’t stop until late in the afternoon. We waited inside the lighthouse until the downpour stopped. As you can see in this photo, waiting for the sun to appear was virtually impossible. I just asked my tricycle driver if we could postpone the tour and move it to another day once I get back from Itbayat Island. Batanes was just welcoming me with this rain, I thought. My mum would always say that a heavy rainfall like this should be considered a blessing. As I was curled up in bed that evening, I was thinking whether I should push through with my Itbayat trip. The raining continued that night. This cold bed weather was perfect if I would only be staying everyday inside my room. I got a fan room but it felt as if I were in Baguio. I soon fell into a deep slumber still unsure what to do the next day. I just set my alarm for 5:00 AM.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Paganaman Port, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Two weeks before my trip to Batanes, I called the airline servicing the Basco-Itbayat route. I was pretty much aware that the airfare would be expensive but at least it would save me time. Unfortunately, the company still had not renewed their papers with the aviation authority so flights from Basco to Itbayat were suspended at that time. I blurted out, “Oh no, I have to ride the public boat for three hours!” The woman on the other line laughed at my remark. “Don’t worry, the weather here is fine.” Fast forward to the dreaded day of my boat trip to Itbayat, our “faluwa” or the public boat Ivatans use for seafaring, encountered gargantuan waves of the Pacific Ocean and South China Sea. I remembered what the woman said back then and I realized, so this is “fine weather” by Ivatan standards.
📍Paganaman Port, Itbayat
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The dreaded day of making one of the biggest decisions in my life had finally come. Gods it’s so hard traveling alone. I needed some pieces of advice on how to go over this! I looked up at the cloudy sky before finally putting on my heavy bag on my back. Screw this. I just wore my come-what-may outlook for this trip. I walked towards Basco Port and saw right away a group of people holding orange life jackets. This must be the passengers en route to Itbayat.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The sea was surprisingly calm. The sun had already risen above the horizon as we waited for our turn to board our faluwa. The boat crew started loading boxes as well as sacks of rice and cement inside the boat’s compartment. Boy was I so nervous because our ride seemed overloaded with those heavy goods. The other faluwa already left but we were still waiting. I whispered to one of the locals, “I wonder what we’re waiting for.” She thought that maybe the minivan parked near the boat would be loaded. What!? I wanted to shout. I calmly said, “Really?” I became more curious than scared for the rest of us. Then the crew positioned two long pieces of sturdy wood that would serve as a makeshift ramp for the vehicle. They tied the van in front of the faluwa. I was still hoping for smooth sailing though. It would be dangerous to travel in rough seas if we’re carrying too much weight.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The adult Ivatans together with their kids started lying down inside the boat. Most of them were already asleep before our boat departed for the northernmost municipality of the Philippines. I sat by the window adoring the cliffs of Batan Island as our faluwa revved up. An old lady beside me spoke as if assuring me, “There were no waves today. Usually, the sea is rough.” A few more minutes passed and our exhilarating ride began. The woman was like, “Oh, sorry. Seems like the waves are big.” If there’s one thing I learned, it’s that you should never underestimate Mother Nature and never come up with hasty generalizations right away. You cannot always predict what’s going to happen. It’s way better to expect the worst.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
A friend of mine who’s been to Batanes months before my trip warned me about the boat ride to Itbayat. She was like, “It’s like being in a washing machine.” She was right all along. Some of the locals started vomiting. Thank the gods I don’t have motion sickness. So far, the biggest of the biggest swell for me in this journey was felt when we’re approaching the landmass of Itbayat. Treacherous waves hit this part of the mainland dotted with breathtaking cliffs. Right after that, the waves seemed to have toned down for approximately another hour before reaching Chinapoliran Port.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
My guide picked me up on his motorcycle and off we went to the town proper called Mayan Centro (Barangay Santa Maria). I scanned my surroundings and saw the district hospital, church and municipal hall. I confirmed with my guide if it’s their Poblacion and he said yes. I’ve never seen a town proper so quiet and empty as if it’s a ghost town. I didn’t see anyone on our way to one of the classic stone houses where I would be staying which is just located a few steps away from the church. We still got ample time that day to see Rapang Cliff so I quickly prepared my daypack for the trek. As we were about to leave for the jump-off, I noticed that the clouds seemed to have started assembling to form nimbus clouds. It’s going to bloody rain again! I also shared with my guide about the minivan that morning. According to him, it is so far the first van to arrive in Itbayat to be used for tourists. He said that tourism in Itbayat is now booming. He jokingly said, “At least, you are now part of history, Sir. You were on board the faluwa that brought that van in this island.”
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Just right after we began our trek, the rain welcomed us with a drizzle before finally pouring heavily on us. Good thing we were right in time to have arrived at a small area of dense vegetation where we waited out the rainfall before proceeding to the scenic portions of this cliff.
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The trek was relatively easy for a seasoned mountaineer like me. The overcast weather provided us shade from the sun as the majority of the trail was open.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
This has been named Rapang Cliff because “rapang” comes from an Ivatan word which means “fingers” as these giant rock formations look like fingers.
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Khaleesi, where art thou and thy dragons?
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Seriously, it felt like I was transported to a scene in “Game of Thrones”. The only thing missing are dragons soaring above me. It didn’t feel like I was in Philippines anymore. The landscapes here in Itbayat are way more different than what I am used to seeing in other parts of the country. Among the three major islands of Batanes, Itbayat will always be my favorite. I fell in love right away with the island’s spectacular cliffs and otherworldly rock formations scattered across its grasslands.
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
That island from afar which looks like a huge chunk of rock is called Di’nem Island.
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
On our way back to the town center, we passed by this eroded spot of a cliff caused by a landslide. Despite the not so great weather, I still felt satisfied for being able to see the grandeur of Rapang Cliff. I was looking forward to the continuation of my Itbayat trip the next day.
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Three hours. The boat ride bound for Itbayat Island lasted for three hours. A piece of cake, I’d say. Kidding! It was a ride of a lifetime. But for someone who hailed from an island and who is so used to riding ferries and boats, the sea is like my second home. Besides, my experience when I was 4 years old, riding Supercat’s fastcraft bound for Batangas Port amidst a Public Storm Warning Signal # 2 is still the best one I had. So far, not a single boat ride has topped that.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
My guide in Itbayat told me that there are times when boat trips to and from Itbayat Island would be cancelled for weeks especially if the monsoon is too strong. I asked him right away where they get their food if there are no available boats that would bring their commodities from Basco. “We plant vegetables and root crops in our backyards,” he proudly said. That was the moment I really admired these people. They are so self-sufficient. They can survive on their own even if they’re isolated from the rest of the world.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Greetings all the way from the northernmost inhabited island of the Philippines and one of the largest uplifted coral reefs in the world! It was time to visit other spots in Itbayat on my second day. This was the first destination on my list, Torongan Cliff.
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
We were supposed to see Torongan Cave but I told my guide that it’s okay if we just skipped it. We continued our trek to see more of the towering cliffs of the island.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
When you saw a fossilized part of a skeleton of Khaleesi’s dragon and you be posing like…
Mt. Karaboboan, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
We were welcomed by other tourists from Basco when we reached the view deck of this mountain. The road was muddy because of the rain last night but it didn’t stop us from getting to the top overlooking Di’nem Island.
📍Mt. Karaboboan, Itbayat
Lake Kavaywan, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Another destination in our itinerary is Lake Kavaywan. The red soil of this lake plus the shape of moving clouds made the perfect combination for this photo.
Itbayat Airport, Batanes, Philippines
Before my trip to Batanes, I’ve read in some blogs that only the brave gets to Itbayat. If you’re not up for the epic rollercoaster boat ride to reach the island, chances are, you will skip Itbayat and just tick off Batan and Sabtang Islands on your list. But if you’re willing to throw some more cash, you may fly from Basco to Itbayat aboard a small chartered aircraft.
📍Itbayat Airport
Paganaman Port, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
We continued our journey here at Paganaman Port where locals dock their fishing vessels. I was expecting waves crashing but the water was calm as evident in this photo. My guide said that they call this phenomenon “dead sea” because of the absence of waves which you will usually experience during summer season. I hope that our boat ride tomorrow back to Basco is smooth, I thought to myself. But I thought wrong.
Blue Lagoon, Paganaman Port, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The water really looked inviting. I would have swum but my imagination was way stronger than my desire to take a dip. “Maybe there are lots of sea snakes and other weird creatures underneath,” I told myself.
📍Blue Lagoon, Paganaman Port, Itbayat
Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
I spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the breathtaking views en route to the port of Mauyen. Another impending thunderstorm almost ruined our itinerary. Thankfully, it was just a light drizzle. We capped off the day by seeing some of the oldest vernacular stone houses in Itbayat. My guide brought me back to my homestay where I waited for the caretaker to bring my dinner. It was agreed that she would cook my meals for my two-day stay. She arrived a bit late because she just came back from a birthday celebration of one of the locals. She brought me a dish for free made from pork with chopped banana pith and turmeric. They call it “uvud”. It’s one of the dishes they cook during celebrations like birthdays. When I tasted it, I thought it was banana blossom but this one felt slightly rougher to the tongue. It was weird at first but as I chewed it longer, it actually tasted great.
📍Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat
Port Mauyen, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
I was already waiting at Chinapoliran Port by 8:00 AM the next day. I prayed to the gods for the arrival of the faluwa from Basco. I couldn’t afford to have my itinerary ruined if I would be extending my stay in Itbayat. I waited patiently as more passengers started arriving. I cried my heart out when I heard the sound of the approaching engine. Yes, I’m saved!
📍En route to Port Mauyen, Itbayat
Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
How do I describe my experience on my way back to Batan Island? It was horrifying, which was aggravated by my being on a solo journey without anyone to talk to. Our faluwa left Chinapoliran Port at 10:00 AM after loading cargoes. I noticed that the swell seemed much bigger as we passed by the cliffs of the island. The nightmare began when we’re right in the middle of the ocean. I remember what my guide told me about weather in Batanes. He said it changes two to three times a day so I have to get used to it. Even if it’s sunny, after an hour or so, it may become windy to be followed by thick clouds and rain. If my ride to Itbayat from Basco two days ago was like being in a washing machine, now, it felt as if I were in a blender. The huge waves were tolerable but the rainfall covered our surroundings which meant zero visibility. The boat’s crew untied the tarps to cover us from the rain carried by strong winds. Imagine being inside a tight dim box as our boat was being tossed in all directions my disoriented mind could think of. Network service was intermittent but I was able to text my mum about the situation. In her reply, she was furious at me for traveling alone. I remembered about the terrifying experience of another guest from Marfel Lodge on my first day here in Batanes. She and her friends had to endure and battle rough seas for five hours. They were supposed to arrive in Basco after three hours but they already passed by Batan Island and reached Sabtang Island instead since the rain caused zero visibility and the boat’s compass was not working. I hope it doesn’t happen to us, I thought. Few more minutes passed and the rain began to dissipate. The outline of Batan Island swallowed by the clouds started to become visible. Thank the gods!
📍Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat
Torongan Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
I could finally breathe when I saw Basco lighthouse from afar. The sea was also calmer this time. I felt so alive the moment I stepped on the concrete flooring of Basco Port. It was definitely an adventure of a lifetime. I smiled as I walked back to Marfel Lodge. I’m glad I went. Honestly, being in Itbayat felt like I was a prisoner in exile. I had to wait for 30 minutes before my photo was uploaded on Facebook because the internet signal was only Edge. Electricity supply also runs only until midnight. But I reckon a lot of things had already changed since my visit.
📍Torongan Cliff, Itbayat

⏰⏳ SAMPLE ITINERARY:

DAY 1
8:00 AM ETA Basco Airport, Batanes
9:00 AM Check-in
10:00 AM Start of North Batan Tour (you may include Chadpidan Boulder Beach for an additional fee)
4:00 PM Head back to homestay/lodge
6:00 PM Dinner

DAY 2
5:00 AM Wake-up call / check-out
6:00 AM Trike to Basco Port
7:00 AM ETD for Itbayat Island
10:00 AM ETA Itbayat Island
10:30 AM Check-in / early lunch
11:30 AM Start of Itbayat Tour
5:00 PM Head back to homestay/lodge
7:00 PM Dinner

DAY 3
3:00 AM Wake-up call / ETD for Rapang Cliff
4:00 AM Commence Trek
5:30 AM ETA Rapang Cliff
7:00 AM Head back to homestay / check-out
9:00 AM ETA Itbayat Port
10:30 AM ETD for Basco Port
1:30 PM ETA Basco Port
2:00 PM Check-in
2:30 PM Hire trike to Diura Fishing Village and Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth
3:00 PM ETA jump-off / register and commence trek
3:30 PM ETA Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth
5:00 PM Head back to homestay/lodge
6:00 PM Dinner

DAY 4
4:30 AM Wake-up call / check-out
5:00 AM Trike to Ivana Port
6:00 AM ETA Ivana Port
7:00 AM ETD for Sabtang Island
7:30 AM ETA Sabtang Island / register
8:00 AM Check-in
9:00 AM Start of Sabtang Island Tour (including Sumnanga Village and Vuhus Island)
4:00 PM Head back to homestay/lodge
7:00 PM Dinner

DAY 5
4:00 AM Wake-up call / check-out / walk to Sabtang Port
5:00 AM ETD for Ivana
5:30 AM ETA Ivana Port / trike back to Basco
6:30 AM Check-in
7:30 AM Start of South Batan Tour
5:00 PM Head back to homestay/lodge
6:00 PM Dinner

DAY 6
6:00 AM Wake-up call
7:00 AM Ride tricycle to Basco Airport
9:00 AM ETD for Manila

💰💶 ESTIMATED BUDGET (for a solo traveler): Php 18,000 – Php 20,000 (exclusive of airfare)
***Expenses may vary depending on the type of accommodation you will avail and personal consumption of food and other necessities. If traveling alone, you will solely shoulder the guide fees and tricycle/motorcycle transfer and tour rates.

Tukon Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
A lot of my friends have been asking me how I was able to visit Batanes and stay there for more than a week without breaking the bank. The truth is, there was a glitch with one of the airlines’ websites. If my memory serves me correctly, I only got my roundtrip plane tickets for roughly 2,100 pesos. It was destiny, I guess. *wink
📍Tukon Hills, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I contacted my guide in Batan Island when I got back in Marfel Lodge from Basco Port. I hastily finished my late brunch before he picked me up to continue our North Batan Tour which was ruined by bad weather on my first day.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
We followed the same itinerary by going here at Vayang Rolling Hills first.
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I noticed that these hills started getting greener because of the rain the past few days. According to my guide, it was barren last month considering it’s dry season.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Basco Lighthouse, Batanes, Philippines
Just a few minutes away from Vayang Hills is Basco Lighthouse. We didn’t stay here that long as I’ve seen it on my first day anyway so I just took a few more photos before we proceeded to our next stop.
Mt. Carmel Chapel, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
We passed by this church in Tukon which was constructed based on the architecture of Ivatan stone houses. It is also known as Mt. Carmel Chapel.
Tukon Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
A quick stop at the radar station of PAGASA gave me an idea to pose at this spot overlooking the beautiful hills of Tukon with Mt. Iraya as the background.
Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
Even it was summer, which has always been known as peak season for travelers in the country, I was fortunate that I never had to wait that long for my turn to take photos at some of the tourist attractions here in Batan Island.
📍Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, Basco
Valugan Boulder Beach, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
If mainstream beaches have sand, pebbles or bits and pieces of corals, this beach, on the other hand, has boulders instead.
📍Valugan Boulder Beach, Basco
Tukon Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
We went back to Marfel Lodge late in the afternoon. The eateries in downtown Basco were already closed so I just bought canned meat and noodles from the inn’s mini version of Honesty Store. This was what I did to survive traveling Batanes on a budget. You don’t always have to eat in fancy restaurants when you’re on a vacation.
📍Tukon Hills, Basco
Chawa View Deck, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
The next day, I asked my guide if we could start early for our South Batan Tour. By the time we left the lodge, there were dark clouds looming over Basco and Mahatao yet I was lucky to experience sunshine. There were also no other visitors by the time we reached this place.
📍Chawa View Deck, Mahatao

***News Flash: My guide broke the news that the coast guard didn’t allow any passenger boats to travel to Itbayat that day which meant that not a single faluwa would be picking up any passengers from Chinapoliran Port. The tourists who arrived yesterday in Itbayat was stranded and had to wait for trips in the coming days. Thank the gods I was able to return to Basco.

Chawa View Deck, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
Just be careful if you plan on getting closer to the portion where waves hit the boulders. My guide warned me that someone already died here at the viewpoint of Chawa.
Marlboro Country, Batanes, Philippines
This is probably one of the most photographed spots here in Batanes. I was really speechless the instant I set foot in this grassland. I could stay here all day. Since we were early, we were the only souls enjoying the view. Right at that very moment, I was reminded again that this was exactly the realization of one of my childhood dreams, seeing Batanes in the flesh.
📍Racuh a Payaman / Marlboro Country
Tayid Lighthouse, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
Chasing lighthouses? It’s more fun in the Philippines.
I have never been a fan of lighthouses. But Batanes is the only place that summoned my appreciation of lighthouses. They would invoke different kinds of emotions every time I’d be seeing them from afar on top of cliffs and rolling hills. You will never get tired of them even upon seeing them for the nth time. It’s as if every lighthouse is alive and has its own personality. Soulful, indeed.
📍Tayid Lighthouse, Mahatao
Uvoy Hills, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
If I would be staying in Batanes for about a month, I’ll explore some of its cliffs and hills that are not yet touched by mainstream tourism. If there’s one thing that I noticed as we traversed the towns of Batan Island, it’s that this province has loads of spectacular rolling hills that would be interesting to see up close.
📍Uvoy Hills, Mahatao
Tayid Lighthouse, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
The highest point of Batanes is that volcano over there called Mt. Iraya. I didn’t get the chance to climb it. I am hoping to include this in my itinerary when I revisit Batanes in the future.
📍Tayid Lighthouse, Mahatao
Alapad Pass and Rock Formation, Uyugan, Batanes, Philippines
Some roads of Batanes have sharp curves and hairpin bends. This iconic portion of Uyugan is the perfect example of that.
📍Alapad Pass and Rock Formation, Uyugan
Alapad Pass and Rock Formation, Uyugan, Batanes, Philippines
This part of Alapad kind of reminds me of the rock formations in Biri Island.
Homoron White Beach, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
You will seldom see beaches with sand, pebbles and crushed corals along the coast of the islands of Batanes, just like in this photo. Most the beaches here are rocky so it’s dangerous if you go for a swim because of the treacherous waves.
📍Homoron White Beach, Mahatao
Mahatao Shelter Port, Batanes, Philippines
Known as Mahatao Shelter Port, this harbor was constructed to protect the fishing vessels of Ivatans when the weather is unfavorable.
Alapad Pass and Rock Formation, Uyugan, Batanes, Philippines
I was lucky that the weather cooperated that day. There were parts of the road that were muddy since it rained hard the night before but at least we were able to pass through. It felt as if we were on “The Amazing Race”, quickly taking photos before the weather rained on us in each of the tourist attraction. It’s as if dark clouds were following us wherever we go.
📍Alapad Pass and Rock Formation, Uyugan

📜✏ Tips/Reminders:
📌If you opt to visit Sabtang and Itbayat Islands, prepare yourself for a bumpy boat ride as you will be sailing through the rough channel between the Pacific Ocean and South China Sea.
📌You can visit Sabtang Island on a day tour but you will not be able to explore Sumnanga Village or Vuhus Island.
📌If you will be including Itbayat Island in your itinerary, allot 6 – 8 days for your whole trip. Weather in Batanes is unpredictable and you might get stranded in Itbayat Island.
📌There is an available ATM in Batanes (Basco) but it’s better to bring extra cash in case the machine doesn’t work.
📌Inform the tour guide beforehand of your plan to go to Itbayat Island.
📌There are available homestays/lodges in each of the islands of Batanes and most of them have their own kitchen so you can cook your own food.
📌There are available bikes that you can rent in Basco if you wish to explore the town on your own.
📌Always observe the LNT principles.

Contacts:
📌Tricycle Driver/Tour Guide in Batan Island (you can also hire him to take you to Ivana Port when you visit Sabtang Island): Kuya Byron (09151316423 / 09295452278)
📌Tricycle Driver/Tour Guide in Sabtang Island: Kuya Tinoy (09194692650)
📌Tour Guide in Itbayat Island: Kuya Jojo (09206603801)

Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
The next morning, I hired my guide to take me to Ivana Port. Clouds were obscuring the sun’s rays but at least it wasn’t raining. We waited for the arrival of the faluwa which left Sabtang early morning to pick up passengers from Batan Island.
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
My guide from Sabtang Island picked me up at the port on his tricycle. What I noticed right away was the roof of the vehicle made out of cogon grass. He then brought me to the tourism office to register. We then proceeded to the homestay where I would be spending the night to leave my belongings before going here at our first destination, the hills of Chamantad-Tinyan.
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
Saying that the waves to get to Sabtang Island are huge is clearly an understatement. I gotta admit, it was really an epic boat ride.
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
When your ethnic outfit is on point, chase rolling hills, the Ivatan way!
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
I remember when I asked the owner of the homestay where I was staying in Sabtang for the key of my room. She just laughed and said that residents in Batanes don’t really lock their doors. After all, their crime rate is virtually at 0%.
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
This all-weather outfit is called “kanayi” worn by men. The headdress, on the other hand, worn by women is called “vakul”.
📍Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang
Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
I think I’ve got hundreds of photos in this tourist attraction of Sabtang. I must say I have covered almost every angle and curve of these hills. Chamantad-Tinyan looks beautiful in photos but to be honest, it’s still way more amazing to experience in person.
Chavayan Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
My guide said that I was lucky because the day before, heavy rain damaged a portion of road leading to Chamantad. Tourists from Batan who toured Sabtang that day were only able to visit the spots on the other side of the island. That must be why there was a construction site to repair the road messed up by the bad weather. At least it was already passable to tricycles and small four-wheeled vehicles when I arrived in Sabtang.
📍Chavayan Village, Sabtang
Chavayan Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
Since visitors from Batan Island usually opt for a day tour of Sabtang, you should expect crowded tourist spots in the island. There were times that I had to wait for my turn before I could take photos especially here at Chavayan Village.
Chavayan Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
The beauty of Chavayan Village not only lies in its picturesque scenery but you will also fall in love with the rustic aura this place emanates.
Chavayan Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
Aside from the beautiful stone houses that you can find here at Chavayan, you will also have the chance to witness in person Ivatans weaving their traditional products such as “kanayi” and “vakul”.
Savidug Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
It was definitely a one-of-a-kind street photography experience as I strolled through these houses frozen in time.
📍Savidug Village, Sabtang
Savidug Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
There were instances when I wanted to go inside some of the vernacular houses to take pictures and my guide said, “Sure, Sir,” right away. I was like, “How about asking for permission?” There was no need for that. Together with some of the tourists, we took our photos in one of the houses owned by a local. There was no one inside the house. My guide said that the owner is in Chamantad-Tinyan watching over her souvenir store at the jump-off. According to him, an Ivatan house could be left for months without anyone to look after it, even with its doors and windows open, and not a single thing would be stolen.
📍Savidug Village, Sabtang
Savidug Village, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
After my epic visit to immerse in the culture of Chavayan and Savidug Villages, it was time to explore the other side of the island.
📍Savidug Village, Sabtang
Sabtang Island, Batanes, Philippines
I was already starving. I didn’t get to have my breakfast and it was almost lunch time. But I could still manage. The scenic views along the road just like this one would suffice to fill my hungry soul.
Sabtang Island, Batanes, Philippines
If you plan on spending the night in Sabtang Island just like what I did, you may add Sumnanga Village in your itinerary. It is Sabtang’s farthest village. Its location may be remote but the view on your way to this secluded portion of the island is one for the books. I also got the chance to see this part of the road which seemed to be the narrowest part of a municipal road I have seen in my entire life.
Sabtang Island, Batanes, Philippines
This is just along the circumferential road of Sabtang Island. I was inside the tricycle as my tour guide and I were on our way to Morong Beach from Sumnanga Village. I asked him to pull over right away when I saw this view. It’s really one of the best road trips ever!
Mahayaw Arch, Morong Beach, Sabtang, Batanes, Philippines
I got this place all to myself when we arrived since the majority of tourists were eating at the restaurant near Morong Beach. They would be going back to Ivana Port after having lunch.
📍Mahayaw Arch / Ahaw Arch of Morong Beach, Sabtang
Sabtang Lighthouse, Batanes, Philippines
Sabtang Lighthouse was closed when I got there. But I was fortunate to have found this spot so I could photograph it from afar with the island’s shoreline. The next morning, I left the homestay at 4:00 AM to catch the first trip of faluwa bound for Ivana Port. I walked towards Sabtang Port in pitch dark as electricity supply does not run for 24 hours in the island. I could hear the sound of huge waves hitting the shore. A heavy downpour then followed amidst the heavy blowing of the wind. Thank the gods the coast guard allowed the boats to sail. The swell proved to be way bigger than yesterday but at least we arrived in Batan Island safely.
Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
My guide from Batan Island picked me up at Ivana Port then brought me back to Marfel. But since he had some errands to take care of, I had to hire another tricycle to get to this hidden gem.
📍Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth, Mahatao
Diura Fishing Village, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
Also known as Fountain of Youth, Racuh-a-Idi can be found here at Diura Fishing Village. After logging in at the registration area at the jump-off, just trek for a few minutes to reach the spring. The trail is straightforward so there’s no need to hire a guide.
Racuh-a-Idi Spring of Youth, Mahatao, Batanes, Philippines
My heart skipped a beat when I saw the amazing pool of Racuh-a-Idi facing the Pacific. I couldn’t complain even if there was no one with me and I just got my tripod and my camera’s timer to take my photos. Traveling alone wasn’t so bad after all. Actually, it turned out to be great!
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I was transferred to another branch of Marfel near the airport. I noticed right away the Japanese bikes outside the lodge that they rent out to their guests. It’s time to hop on a bike for my next batch of photos.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
One cheap way to explore Basco is by renting a bicycle. Lodges and homestays usually have available bicycles. It’s a perfect leg workout due to the hilly terrain of Batanes.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
It was my 8th day in Batanes and I was done exploring all the major islands so I decided to just go back to Naidi and Vayang Hills since they’re the closest. I could’ve gone alone but I still needed someone to take my photos so I asked my guide to pick me up from the inn. There weren’t any tourists yet when we reached the rolling hills because it was still early. The sunny weather offered the perfect opportunity for awesome pictures in this verdant landscape.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Chadpidan Boulder Beach, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I was chilling out on top of Vayang Hills with my tour guide when I saw this beach. I asked him if it’s Valugan Boulder Beach but he said it’s a different one. I requested if he could take me there. Honestly, I like this beach way better than Valugan. You won’t have photobombers as this is not included in the North Batan Tour.
📍Chadpidan Boulder Beach, Basco
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I bid goodbye to my guide and thanked him for touring me around Batan Island. I asked him to just take me to Basco Lighthouse and leave me there where I could relax and rest before cycling my way back to Marfel Lodge to have my lunch.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Basco Lighthouse, Batanes, Philippines
I went back here at Basco Lighthouse late in the afternoon. Most of the tourists cap off their day at this spot to wait for the sunset. I noticed some local kids hanging out on top of the lighthouse overlooking Naidi Hills. Some were doing their school assignments while some seemed to be exchanging stories and probably sharing their dream of leaving the island for a better future. Since the beautiful landscapes of Batanes are surely nothing special for these kids because it’s a normal sight for them, I wonder if they are aware of how lucky they are to be born and raised in this paradise. They’ve probably seen the different hues of red and orange and pink of sunsets a million times. My chest felt heavy for such a heartbreaking farewell. I stayed until twilight. I badly wanted to make the most of my time left in this province.
Rapang Cliff, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
Batanes didn’t disappoint. There may be places that seem overrated, mainstream tourist destinations that only look good in photos but pictures of Batanes in the internet could never give justice to the real beauty of this island province once you see it with your own eyes.
📍Rapang Cliff, Itbayat
Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
I traveled solo in Batanes and stayed here for nine days yet I never felt sad at all for being alone. It actually felt like I just migrated and I could already call it home. The aura of the province really feels very soothing; although visiting Itbayat Island made me feel like I was a prisoner in exile atoning for my sins in a faraway island. Maybe because it’s the northernmost town of the Philippines and I had no company. But overall, it is still one of my most favorite places. After all, this has been my ultimate Philippine dream destination.
📍Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco
Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat, Batanes, Philippines
The Home of the Winds.
The Land of Ivatans.
The Northernmost Frontier.
The Highway of the Storms.
📍Cliffs of Port Mauyen, Itbayat
Naidi Hills, Basco, Batanes, Philippines
itinerary, n.

We made plans for our future trips. It never crossed my mind that you wanted me to be part of your future. I just never thought that your concept of “future” is much more short-lived than the happiness I felt when you asked me if I wanted to be your travel buddy.

– Riley, The Dictionary of a Lost Traveler

***For other destinations in Cagayan Valley Region, you may visit this link.

Leave a Reply

Discover more from Backpacking Philippines

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading